Dragon Pendant

This small dragon has enough structural integrity to hold it's own weight, and can be worn as a pendant. It can be made with beads or without them. You can also work with one shuttle or two.

If you are working with two shuttles, the chains will be made with one shuttle and the rings with the other. If you are working with only one shuttle, then you must be careful to make sure your chains have their tension properly adjusted before doing the rings. Although the top of the wings need to be kept fairly tight, mostly the important thing is to keep the tension equal between the two sides of the dragon, so that it stays symmetrical.

    Requires:
  • One or two shuttles.
  • One color of thread (pictured example uses DMC's metallic embroidery thread.)

If you are using beads, load 11 or 13 beads on the thread of the shuttle that you are making the chains with (the one that will turn into the core thread), and wind them onto the shuttle along with the thread. You will want them fairly evenly spaced along the thread.

I like to start at the point where the tail joins itself, but some people find it easier to make the final join look smooth and natural if they start at the end of the tail instead. If this is your preference also, simply move the tail bead(s) if you are using them, and the final seven double-knots from the end of the pattern to the start.

    Diagram Key:
  • Numbers indicate double-stitches.
  • Loops   picot/join
  • Ovals   beads
    Text Abbreviations:
  • Numbers indicate double-stitches.
  • -   picot
  • =   join
  • *   an optional bead
  • -*   a picot or a bead

    Tail section
  • Chain 3 - 4
    Body
  • Ring 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3

If you are using beads, picots marked as -* should be omitted: instead slide a bead from the working shuttle into that spot. Make sure to keep the thread tight at the closure of the Top Ring, or the wing will come out floppy.

    First Wing
  • Inner Ring 3 = 3 - 3 - 3 - 3
  • Chain 3
  • Middle Ring 3 = 3 - 3 - 4 - 3
  • Chain 4 -* 4 = 4 -* 4
  • Outer Ring 4 = 4 - 6 - 4
  • Chain 4 -* 6 = 6 - 3
  • Top Ring 4 = 6 = 2 = 2 = 4 - 4
  • * If you are using beads, slide a bead into place
  • Chain 3 = 3 = 2 = 3 - 2

The head is a mock ring, or if you prefer a self-closing mock ring. I think the head and neck area is a little stronger if you do not make the ring self-closing, but the self-closing ring is a little easier to keep looking neat and tidy. The eye beads, marked with *, are optional. The attachment ring at the nose can be changed into picot instead, depending on your attachment needs/preferences.

    Head
  • -
  • Turn the tatting over so the knots curve in the opposite direction.
  • Mock Ring Start 2 - 1 * 5
  • Attachment Ring 14
  • Mock Ring End 5 * 1 - 2
  • Close Mock Ring
    Second Wing
  • Chain 2 = 3 = 2
  • Inner Ring 3 = 3 - 3 - 3 - 3
  • Chain 3 - 3
  • Top Ring 4 = 4 = 2 - 2 - 6 - 4
  • * If you are using beads, slide a bead into place
  • Chain 3 = 6
  • Outer Ring 6 = 4 - 4 - 4
  • Chain 6 -* 4 = 4 -* 4
  • Middle Ring 4 = 3 = 3 = 3 - 3
  • Chain 4 -* 4 = 3 = 3

The tail can be finished with one bead or three (or none). One is a little more streamlined, but three makes a nice point or hook. Knot the beads into place with a square knot, and then work in the threads. How tightly you pull the threads before tying the final square knot, determines how curved the tail of your little dragon will be.

    Tail Section
  • Chain 4= 3 = 7 *
  • Finish off threads.

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